Saturday, April 26, 2014

Baby Daughters Hat. Mother and Daughter Free Crochet Hat pattern

Free Crochet Hat Patterns Delivered To You From Cats-Rockin-Crochet



Lovely Kat and her charming baby daughter Quinn


free crochet hat patterns
Every daughter wants to be just like their Mummy
free crochet hat patterns
View with flower
free crochet hat patterns
View with no flower

Introduction: This crochet baby hat pattern uses a very simple crochet technique, a little tweaking of the dc stitch gives you this wonderful textured look. You will conquer the tweak in no time and have your very own Baby Daughters Hat that will match the Mothers Beret, Mother and Daughter crochet beret pattern. This free crochet pattern includes instructions for making the flower and leaf too. Get your hook and yarn ready, grab the free pattern and away you go! 

Size: newborn
Time: approx 1 hour
Materials Used:
Hook: 4 mm medium
Yarn: 8 ply approx 50 gm's
Sewing needle
US terms used
Stitches Used: Main body of the hat
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
Bdc = back double crochet = see special stitch explanation


Stitches used: Hat edge
Fphdc = front post half double crochet
Bphdc = back post double crochet


Special stitch Explanation:
when we look at the loops of the dc that we work into, you will see that there are 2 strands of yarn on the top of the dc and one strand of yarn on the bottom, coming from the front of the dc, we place our hook in the space between these and make a dc. The special stitch is made by placing your hook behind the dc, going into the space over and under the single strand pulling our working yarn through to make a dc. This technique does become as fast and efficient as a commonly placed dc.



 

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st
BEGIN: the hat is made from the crown and down to the hat edge
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)
(Increase in every st)
Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc in 1st st, work 2 bdc in next, *work 2 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (24 dc)
(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 bdc in the next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next st, work 2 bdc into the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 2 bdc into the next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 dc
(no increases) row 5 will form the pattern used for making the body of the hat
Row 5, ch 2, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 1 bdc in  each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48dc), repeat row 5 until your hat measures approx 4 to 4.5 inches in length
Hat Edge:
Row 1, ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in each of the next 2 st's, work 1 bpdc in each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st st of this round, repeat hat edge, row 1, until your hat measures approx 5 to 5.5 inches in length. finish off and sew in ends


free crochet flower patterns
Adult 7 petal flower pattern

Flower Pattern:
5 petals

ch 3, sl st to 1st chain to form a ring, or use the magic circle
Round 1, work 10 sc into, sl st into 1st sc to join
Round 2, ch 5, *sl st into each of the next 2 sc, ch 5* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into 1st st , to close round, 5 loops, leave a long tail for sewing and break off yarn, join in new color yarn with a sl st and ch 3 into any loop
Round 3, make 10 dc in the 1st loop, sl st into the next loop, ch 3 and work 10 dc into the same loop, repeat for next 3 loops, finish off, leave a long tail for sewing (5 petals)


Leaf:
Ch 10, work 1 sc in second ch from hook, work 1 hdc next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 trpl in the next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 hdc in the next  ch, work 1 sc in last ch, now working on the other side of the ch row, sl st into 1st ch, work 1 sc in 1st ch, work 1 hdc next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 trpl in the next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 hdc in the next  ch, work 1 sc in last ch, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing


free flower crochet patterns for the adult beret

Free Crochet Hat Patterns, Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Mothers Beret. Mother and Daughter Free Crochet Hat pattern

Free Crochet Hat Patterns Delivered To You From Cats-Rockin-Crochet



Lovely Kat and her charming baby daughter Quinn

free crochet beret patterns
Every daughter wants to be just like their Mummy
free crochet beret patterns
Side view with the flower
free crochet beret hat patterns
Side view without the flower

Introduction: This crochet beret pattern uses a very simple crochet technique, a little tweaking of the dc stitch gives you this wonderful textured look. You will conquer the tweak in no time and have your very own Mothers Beret that will match the baby size Mother and Daughter crochet hat pattern. This free crochet pattern includes instructions for making the flower and leaf too. Get your hook and yarn ready, grab the free pattern and away you go!

free crochet hat patterns for baby

Size: Adult, small/medium, medium/large
Time: Leisurely 2 hours
Materials Used:
Hook:
small/medium follow pattern using a 4 mm, medium/large follow pattern using a 5mm 
Yarn: 8 ply small medium, 10 ply medium/large, approx 100 gm's
Sewing needle
US terms used

Stitches Used: Main body of the hat
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
Bdc = back double crochet = see special stitch explanation

Stitches used: Hat edge
Fphdc = front post half double crochet
Bphdc = back post double crochet

Special stitch Explanation: when we look at the loops of the dc that we work into, you will see that there are 2 strands of yarn on the top of the dc and one strand of yarn on the bottom, coming from the front of the dc, we place our hook in the space between these and make a dc. The special stitch is made by placing your hook behind the dc, going into the space over and under the single strand pulling our working yarn through to make a dc. This technique does become as fast and efficient as a commonly placed dc.




Beret begins at the crown and is worked down to the brim
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st
BEGIN:
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)
(Increase in every st)
Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc in 1st st, work 2 bdc in next, *work 2 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (24 dc)
(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 bdc in the next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next st, work 2 bdc into the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 2 bdc into the next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 dc)
(Increase in every 4th st)
Row 5,
ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 3 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (60 dc)
(Increase in every 5th st)
Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 3 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 4 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 dc)
(Increase in every 6th st)
Row 7, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 4 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 5 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (84 dc)
(Increase in every 7th st) you will now be working 2 dc, 2 bdc through out this round and for the rest of the beret pattern until we reach the hat edge
Row 8, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc in next st, work 1 bdc in each of next 2 st's, work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work 2 bdc in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work 1 bdc in each of next 2 st's, work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work 2 bdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (96 dc)
(no increases) row 9 will form the pattern used for making the body of the hat
Row 9, ch 2, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2st's, work 1 bdc in  each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (96 dc)
repeat row 9, 12 more times, or continue for length desired

Hat edge: Tips for hat edge: if you find your hat edge is not getting smaller as you use the sc stitch, you can make decreases any where in the round, I suggest that you wait until you have at least 5 hat edge rows made and try it on before you make any decreases.
Row 1, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, to join sl st into the 1st sc of the round
Row 2, ch 1, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of the round.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, 5 more times (10 rows plus  the 1st 2 rows 12 rows) finish off and sew in ends or follow on for a very simple decorative hat edge
To make a simple decorative hat edge
Row 1, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1 st, sl st into next st, *1 hdc in next st, sl st in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join, finish off.

free crochet pattern for a 7 petal flower

Flower: 7 petals
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Round 1, ch 1, work 14 sc into ring, to join, sl st into 1st sc of this round
Round 2, ch 5, *sl st into each of the next 2 sc, ch 5* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into 1st st , to close round, (7 loops), leave a long tail for sewing and break off yarn,  join in new color yarn with a sl st and ch 3 into any loop
Round 3, work (6 dc, 3 trpl, 6 dc, ch 3 and a sl st) into ch 5 loop, *sl st into next ch 5 loop, work (ch 3, 6 dc, 3 trpl, 6 dc, ch 3 and a sl st)* repeat from *to* 5 more times. You will have 7 petals. The flower petals will be disorganized, you will need to arrange them the way that you like them.
 

free crochet flower and leaf pattern

Leaf: make 2
Ch 15, work 1 sc in second ch from hook, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work 1 trpl in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 sc in last ch, now working on the other side of the ch row, sl st into 1st ch, work 1 sc in 1st ch, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work 1 trpl in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 ch, work 1 sc in last ch, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing

You may also like the Two Faces free crochet hat pattern using the very same stitch.
free crochet hat patterns

Free Crochet Hat Patterns, Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Two Faces Free Crochet Hat Pattern

Free Crochet Hat Patterns Delivered To You From Cats-Rockin-Crochet



free crochet hat patterns
This is the right side facing out
free crochet patterns
This is the inside facing out

Introduction: This crochet hat pattern uses a very simple technique, you will be amazed by the simplicity of the actual hat pattern, but it doesn't stop there, the hat is also reversible, with two very individual looks, descending valley or pinched peaks, two tone, three tone, variegated, scrap yarn you name it you can use it with this free crochet hat pattern

free crochet hat patterns
Side view, notice the descending valley
free crochet hat patterns
Inside view, notice the pinched peaks
Size: Adult, small/medium, medium/large
Time: Approx 2.5 hours
Materials Used:
Hook: small/medium follow pattern using a 4 mm, medium/large follow pattern using a 5mm
Yarn: 8 ply small medium, 10 ply medium/large, approx 100 gm's
Sewing needle
US terms used

Stitches Used: Main body of the hat
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
Bdc = back double crochet = see special stitch explanation

Stitches used: Hat edge
Fphdc = front post half double crochet
Bphdc = back post double crochet

Special stitch Explanation: when we look at the loops of the dc that we work into, you will see that there are 2 strands of yarn on the top of the dc and one strand of yarn on the bottom, coming from the front of the dc, we place our hook in the space between these and make a dc. The special stitch is made by placing your hook behind the dc, going into the space over and under the single strand pulling our working yarn through to make a dc. This technique does become as fast and efficient as a commonly placed dc.




The free crochet baby hat pattern can be found here and the free crochet beret hat pattern can be found here

The hat is made from the top of the crown and down to the hat edge
Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st
BEGIN:
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)
(Increase in every st)
Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc in 1st st, work 2 bdc in next, *work 2 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (24 dc)
(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 bdc in the next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work 2 bdc in next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next st, work 2 bdc into the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 2 bdc into the next st*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 dc)
(Increase in every 4th st)
Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 3 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (60 dc)
(Increase in every 5th st)
Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 3 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st, * work 1 dc into each of the next 4 st's, work 2 bdc in the next st*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 dc)
(No increases) Row 7 will form the pattern used for making the body of the hat
Row 7, ch 2, *work 1 dc into each of the next 4 st's, work 1 bdc in  each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 dc)
repeat row 7, 8 more times, or continue for length desired
Hat edge: wide and narrow rib look by using 4 fphdc, followed by 2 bphdc
Row 1, ch 1, *work 1 fphdc in each of the next 4 st's, work 1 bphdc in each of the next 2 st's*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st st of the round, (72 hdc)
repeat row 1 of hat edge 6 more times or continue for desired length, finish off and sew in ends

Free Crochet Hat Patterns, Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Robyn's Beret Crochet Hat Pattern



Crochet Hat Pattern For Robyn's Beret



The matching polo style neck warmer free crochet pattern is now available.



Introduction: I have called this free crochet hat pattern, Robyn's Beret as it was made for my sister-in-law Robyn. She gave me 2 bags of yarn that she decided she would not use and asked if I could just make her something to keep her neck warm. I made the neck warmer first and I just knew that I had to make a matching hat for it. I was very pleased with the way the hat turned out, I knew I would have to write a pattern for it. I also received a very strong and positive response to the hat on my Face Book page.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank my Face Book page likes, so thank you so very much!
Small Pink Crochet Hat Pattern

I made Robyn's hat with a specialty yarn that is no longer available, so I had to make and write the hat pattern for a readily available yarn choice.
The gold color is French Oak #7.7, the pink color is called Sweet Ribbon #7.14
filati yarn for the crochet hat pattern

Also if you take a close look at the pink hat above you will be able to see the subtle stitch pattern that I used in both versions.
I have even drawn the stitch diagram for those of you who prefer the stitch diagram, the pattern is in multiples of  9 st's.

crochet hat pattern graph



























I wanted to show you yet another way the crochet hat pattern will look with a combination of a plain and variegated yarn. *I have used the plain yarn for the crown, the simple pattern row and the sc row of the hat edge*.
*The variegated yarn is used in the body of the hat on the hdc rows and in the bpsc rows of the hat edge*.
You may find this information useful as the hat pattern does not refer to color changes.

close up hat pattern 













 
The crochet hat pattern is available in SIZES, small, medium and large.
This was also the very first time I was able to use an American brand yarn that I purchased off the shelf here in Australia!
red hear yarn 10 ply

Please show some love and hit the like button for facebook or G+
Materials:
Hook sizes: AU 5 mm, 6mm US H/8, J/10
Yarn: 10 ply, US 4 medium approx 100 gms
Sewing needle
Experience: Beginner +
Time: Approx 2 hours
Stitches Used:
Sc = single crochet
Bpsc = back post single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Bphdc = back post half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet
Special instructions: for the simple pattern row, you will skip 2 st's and make a dc in the third st, then you will go back and work into the skipped st's with a hdc, YOU MUST come from behind the dc to work into the 1st skipped st, then the next skipped stitch. 

We begin making the hat pattern at the crown.

To Begin Hat Pattern: For the large size you will use the 6 mm hook. For all other sizes you will use the 5mm hook.
The ch 1 or ch 2 at the beginning of the rounds is not counted as a stitch
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring 
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (12 dc) 
Increase in every st 
Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, work 1 fpdc around the same dc, *work 1 sc into next dc, work a fpdc around the same dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (12 dc, 12 sc) 
Increase in second st 
Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc,work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 12 sc) 
Increase in third st 
Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work a fpdc around the same fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in the next fpdc, work a fpdc around the same fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 24 sc)
No increases 
Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 24 sc) 
Increase in every fourth st 
Row 6, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, * work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (36 dc, 24 sc) 
Increase in every fifth 
Row 7, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work 1 fpdc in same fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work 1 fpdc in same fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (36 dc, 36 sc) for small size stop increases here and go to row 8.
No increases and medium to large size only
Row A, (large size only) ch 1 work 1 sc in 1st sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round 
Increase in every sixth, medium to large size only
Row B, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (48 dc, 36 sc)
Medium to large size only
Row C, on this row only, decrease 3 st's anywhere in this round,
ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 fpdc's, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 fpdc's* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (81 st's)
Medium to large size only
Row D, repeat row C with out the decreases (81 st's)
Small size only
Row 8, ch 1 work 1 sc in 1st sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round
Small size only
Row's 9, 10, 11 and 12, repeat row 8
All sizes
Row 13, ch 1, work 1 bpdhc around 1st and every st of this row, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Row 14, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st and every st of this round, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round 
Row 15, repeat row 14
Pattern Stitch begins: 
Row 16, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc, *work 1 hdc in next st, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
A simple break down for row 16, all sizes
Row 16, ch 1, 1 hdc in 1st st, skip 2 st's,  1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st skipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st,  1 hdc in the st following the dc, skip 2 st's, 1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st skipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, 1 hdc in the st following the dc, *1 hdc in next st, skip 2 st's,  1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st kipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, 1 hdc in the st following the dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, 

Row 17, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st and every st of this round, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Row 18, repeat row 16, pattern row 
Row 19, repeat row 17
Row 20, repeat row 16 pattern row 
Row 21, repeat row 17, for small size stop pattern row and go to hat edge rows
Medium to large size only
Row A, repeat row 16, pattern row 
Row B, repeat row 17
Row C,  being a Row 1, Hat Edge, you will now work 1 sc in each st and dec 1 st in very 6th st until there are 4 st's left, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 st's, join (70 st's) go to row 2 of the hat edge

How to single crochet in the back loops video tutorial available here
 
Hat Edge: 
Row 1, small size only, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, join  
Row 2, to make the 1 st bpsc, come in from behind the ch 1, insert hook into the space between the ch 1 and the 1st sc and make the bpsc around the 1st sc, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, make join into the top of the 1st bpsc of the round
Row 3, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, join 
Row 4, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join 
Row 5, repeat row 3
Row 6, repeat row 4
Row 7, repeat row 3
Row 8, repeat row 4, you can make the hat a bit longer if you like, or finish off and sew in ends.


related items: matching polo style neck warmer


 Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Writing A Pattern For Speciality Yarn

If you write a pattern for a specialty yarn, it's best to make sure that the specialty yarn is readily available for purchase

If you do write a pattern for a specialty yarn, it's best to make sure that the yarn will be available for ease of purchase.
I recently made a hat and scarf set for my sister in law that deemed to be very popular, so I began to write a pattern for it, although the initial set I made was easy to make up, once I started writing the pattern for readily available yarn, I had to make many alterations to the original pattern. I knew that the specialty yarn was old stock and I was not able to recommend an alternative yarn for my readers to use. What made further difficulties for me was that I used a yarn ply I was not familiar with. You may be wondering why I did that. The reason being is that here in Australia , we have a nation wide department store that is now stocking Red Heart yarn! This was my first chance to use it in writing a pattern, this ply of yarn is universally available.
So I had lots of frogging and deleting/retyping text, this is all while I have a head cold too. What would have taken me 2 days at the most has become double that and all for the love of crochet.



This is the original crochet hat and scarf set, the buttons really set it off
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet





















I love the crocheted textures within the hat and scarf
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet



















The beginning crown of the hat, reminds me of an older style tupperware lid
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet


















I have 2 sizes almost completed with the Red Heart yarn
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet
















This is how I mapped out the pattern for the body of the hat pattern
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet














Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Rachelle's Hand Crocheted Treasures




I was almost blown away when I saw these pictures from Rachelle.
She has combined 2 of my free patterns for a matching baby set.
The one piece booties has been and still is one of the most used baby patterns that I designed, the baby rails hat pattern is a recent pattern that I wrote too. I think she is very clever putting the 2 patterns together, it's almost as if they were made for one another.
You can visit Rachelle's page on Face Book, she has a variety of hand made crochet goodies and I believe she does take orders for her hand made goodies too.  
Alternatively, you can visit Rachelle at her blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/baby-rails-free-crochet-pattern.html
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2011/05/cats-one-piece-wonder-bootie-pattern.html

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Unisex, Teaser Slouch, Free Crochet Pattern



Introduction: The teaser slouch hat pattern is not only a unisex design, it has a unique simple stitch pattern that will keep you warm on the coldest of winter days. 

The hat can be made with an assortment of your favorite colors to match any existing fashion outfits that you have, or you can choose to make it in the one color, any color choice will still bring out the beauty of this pattern design.

Why did I call this stitch pattern the Teaser?

I felt like the stitch pattern was teasing me, just as I had established 2 rows of the pattern, I felt like the pattern was moving in one direction, then once I completed the next 2 rows of the pattern, it headed in the opposite direction and was giving an amazing and subtle decorative stitch pattern, it even feels amazing!


















The Stitch pattern is formed over 4 rows in total. The first 2 rows are the same as each other and the next 2 rows are the same as each other, so it will not be difficult to memorize the  pattern.The band of the hat is also duplicate rows.

The pattern stitch count is multiples of 2, so it can be adjusted very easily for any sizing. Let's say for instance you do not want a slouch and prefer a beanie/toque for an adult medium, you will  stop your increases at the stitch count of 72 for the crown, then continue on with the pattern instructions and also make it a shorter length for the beanie/toque.



















To fit: Adult, Male or Female
Yarn: 8 ply approx 200 gm’s US DK/Medium
Hook size: 4 mm US G/6
US crochet terms used
Skill level: beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 4 hours
Stitches used:
Sl st=slip stitch
Ch=chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc= half double crochet
Dc =double crochet
Bpsc = back post single crochet, there is a video tutorial on how to do the bpsc on the video's page of this blog.
Fpdc = front post double crochet 


Please note! the beginning chain 2,of the rounds are not counted as a stitch
To begin: working from the top of the hat and down to the hat edge

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (12 dc)
Row 2, ch 1 work (1 hdc,1 dc) in each dc to end, join (24 st's)

Increase in every 2nd stitch
Row 3, ch 2 work 1 dc in 1st st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc,1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (36 st's)

Increase in every 3rd stitch
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (48 st's)
Increase in every 4th stitch

Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 st's, (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (60 st's)
Increase in every 5th stitch
 

Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join,
(72 st's)

Increase in every 6th stitch 
Row 7, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join,
(84 st's) finish of increases
Row 8, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join
Pattern rows:
Working into dc stitches only
Row 9, ch 1 work (1 hdc into the eye of the 1st dc, work 1 fpdc around the same dc), skip next st, *work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc in next st), skip next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in the 1st dc of this rnd, (42 hdc, 42 dc)
Row 10, repeat row 9, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Working into the hdc st's only
Row 11, ch 1, work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc) in the 1 st hdc of this round, skip next st, *work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc) in next st, skip the next st* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round (42 hdc, 42 dc)
Row 12, repeat row 11

Rows 9 to 12 form pattern.
Continue working pattern for a length of approx 9 inches (or your desired length)
Hat Edge:
Row 1, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 2, to make the 1 st bpsc, come in from behind the ch 1, insert hook into the space between the ch 1 and the 1st sc and make the bpsc around the 1st sc, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, make join into the top of the 1st bpsc
Row 3, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 4, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 5,
ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 6, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 7, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 8, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 9, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 10, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 11, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 12, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 13, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 14, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join, you can finish off here or continue for length desired

























If you would like to see how I was able to carry my yarn whilst making the Teaser Slouch, just click on the picture below
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/how-to-carry-non-working-yarn.html


Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it


Monday, April 14, 2014

How To Carry Non Working Yarn


How To Carry Yarn Not In Use


I am currently working on a hat pattern that uses different colors, I do not want to have to sew in lots of tails upon finishing my hat, so I have carried all of the colors along the seam of every round.















In this picture you can see the inside of the hat with the beginning and ending strands of yarn.





























On the exterior side of the hat you can barely notice what has been happening on the inside of the hat












This is how I achieved this as I ended and started each and every round. I folded the non working strands over my hook and pulled the new working yarn through the non working yarns and then through the stitch on my hook and made a slip stitch, to join the round and to begin a new round of my hat.

















I then pulled the non working strands nice and snug against the beginning of the round I am now working into. Those non working strands of yarn are now ignored as I continue to crochet this round, you do not want to work over them any further as they will not be in place for the next color change.













If you click on the picture below to enlarge it you will see that every strand is neatly tucked away. 














This helpful tip is brought to you with pleasure from Cats-Rockin-Crochet
Google

Friday, April 11, 2014

The Easy Magic Slouch



Introduction: I have named this free crochet hat pattern, The Easy Magic Slouch as it's decorative and textured look is so easy to achieve. The decorative bumps are made by placing a trpl crochet in between 2 sc's, the larger st placed between the 2 smaller st's force the larger st to poke out, so much easier and quicker than making a bobble st or a popcorn st and less yarn too! now that's magic. The texture of the st's in the body of the hat is achieved by placing a hdc and dc next to each other and repeated for the round, the texture of the hat edge is a row of sc's followed by a row of bpsc which completes the easy magic slouch, I hope you have as much fun making this hat pattern as I did whilst writing it. Find me on Face Book.































To fit: Adult
Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 gm’s US DK/Medium
Hook size: 4 mm US G/6
US crochet terms used
Skill level: beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 3 hours
Stitches used:
Sl st=slip stitch
Ch=chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc= half double crochet
Dc =double crochet
Trpl = triple crochet
Bpsc = back post single crochet, there is a video tutorial on how to do the bpsc on the video's page of this blog.


Please note! the beginning 2 chain is not counted as a stitch
Starting at the top of the crown
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, join this way on each round (12 dc)

Increase in every stitch
Row 2, ch 1 work (1 hdc,1 dc) in each dc to end, join (24 st's)
Increase in every 2nd stitch
Row 3, ch 2 work 1 dc in 1st st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc,1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (36 st's)
Increase in every 3rd stitch
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (48 st's)
Increase in every 4th stitch
Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 st's, (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (60 st's)
Increase in every 5th stitch
Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join, (72 st's)
Increase in every 6th stitch
Row 7, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join, (84 st's)
***Color change
Row 8, ch 1, work 1 sc in 1 st, work 1 trpl in next st, (push the trpl's forward so they poke outward), *work 1 sc in next st, work 1 trpl in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (84 st's)
***Color change
Row 9, ch 2 work 1 dc in 1st, work 1 hdc in next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join
Row 10 and 11, repeat row 9
***Color change
Row 12, repeat row 8
***Color Change
Row 13, 14 and 15 repeat rows, 9
***Color change
Row 16,
repeat row 8
***Color change
Row 17, 18 and 19 repeat row, 9
***Color change
Row 20, repeat row 8
Row 21, 22 and 23 repeat row, 9
***Color Change
Row 24, repeat row 8
Row 25 and 26, repeat row 9
Begin the hat edge
Row 27, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 28, to make the 1 st bpsc, come in from behind the ch 1, insert hook into the space between the ch 1 and the 1st sc and make the bpsc around the 1st sc, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, make join into the top of the 1st bpsc
***Color change
Row 29, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 30, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
***Color change
Row 31,
ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 32, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
***Color change
Row 33, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 34, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
***Color change
Row 35, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 36, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
***Color change
Row 37, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 38, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
***Color change
Row 39, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 40, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join, finish off and sew in ends



















Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Google